The Timeless Allure of San Francisco’s Esprit
By: Gail Goldberg
Photographer & Creative Direction: Alon Reuveni
Special “Thank You” to archive collection @esprit.flashback for loaning FiSF the garments & accessories featured in this editorial.
It hasn't been based in San Francisco for decades but the spirit of Esprit remains a part of the fabric of the city.
Of course, we're talking about the optimistic and vibrant Esprit of (then) SF power couple Susie and Doug Tompkins who founded the women's clothing label in 1968 and grew it into a successful, innovative and socially conscious global behemoth before selling it in the late '90s.
Kimberly Olivier in 80's classic bomber over Resnicoff tourist print dress.
Nicole Kelley & Kimberly Olivier reading between the lines in some graphic squiggle sweaters.
During its '80s heyday, Esprit was one of the most covetable and beloved Gen X brands. Today, thanks to an Instagram devoted to the Esprit of yore, esprit.flashback, those Gen X-ers have a place to reminisce and share their vintage treasures with each other and with Gen Z, many of who are just discovering the brand.
Launched three years ago by Michelle Koza, the account is a veritable wonderland of all things Esprit. Like many of her generation, Koza, who grew up in Hawaii, was obsessed with the bright colors, textures and patterns of Esprit—even though she couldn't afford the clothes.
Oh, the irony.
Nicole Kelley in classic logo sweatshirt in a multi stripe mash up. Kimberly Olivier in iconic Memphis sweatshirt over classic 5 pocket skirt.
Now living in Santa Monica, the design consultant has amassed a trove of more than 2,400 Esprit garments and Esprit-centric items, i.e., original catalogs, corporate collateral and marketing materials, etc.
"In 2017, I received a personal Esprit collection containing over 1,800 artifacts from a friend who passed away. She knew how much I loved the brand and trusted me with her collection," Koza explains.
Unsurprisingly, the amazing inheritance rekindled Koza's love affair with the label, and she began expanding the archive. Her goal was simple: to capture the Esprit heritage of the '80s and early '90s, and share it with others. Enter @esprit.flashback.
"The Instagram account is my love letter to the brand. All of my artifacts bring me joy and remind me of my youth. My archive is not intended for my eyes only— but for the millions of people who love Esprit as much as I do," says Koza.
One of those millions? Susie Tompkins Buell herself. "I am so happy to see @esprit.flashback and see that our spirit has survived the times," she says.
Another follower over the moon about discovering the account is Marin resident Gym Tan. Her connection to Esprit, however, is more personal than most as she worked for the company for a dozen years beginning in the mid '80s. During her tenure, Tan held various executive-level roles building and running regional business for Esprit Asia.
"I’ve loved following and getting to know Koza, the archive and story. Reconnecting with the numerous ex and current Esprit employees who follow her account has been a bonus," she says.
Nicole Kelley in “Starry Night” Resnicoff print shirt over sport tank and people pixel printed pants.
Did we mention Tan is a FiSF Advisory Board member and mentor? In fact, it's she who planted the seed for this very feature/photoshoot, which took place in the Dogpatch near Esprit's former HQ at 900 Minnesota Street.
Together, Tan and Koza powwowed about which archive pieces to include: "Pulling items was a snap as Gym knew the Esprit collections so well and styled everything in her head. I have to admit I thought some of the mix-and-match patterns wouldn’t work— but they did!," says a smiling Koza.
The task of styling the models also fell to Tan, a job she fully embraced. "It was definitely a blast from the past! Especially putting the looks together. It was so fun and easy and familiar all at the same time. I felt like I could have done it in my sleep (LOL)! It brought back so many great memories from other Esprit campaign shoots I’ve been involved with," Tan says.
As evidenced by all these glorious technicolor photos, the spirit and style of the quintessential California lifestyle brand holds up well, especially in SF. After all, this is the city where it all began, where microclimates, love of layers and a laid-back aesthetic will always be part of the lifeblood.
In fact, SF native Tompkins Buell credits her free-spirited California energy as being a driving force at the company. "The Esprit lifestyle was grown out of the '70s and '80s when outdoor activity and environmental awareness was just starting. We were pioneers and our personal values and tastes drove what we did. It was a very fun time and the product reflected this. It was also a time of growing awareness…we took that part seriously as we had done so well and wanted to participate in embracing social and environmental concerns," she explains.
Esprit was one of the first major brands in the world to address racism, mental health, environmental protection, and women’s reproductive rights in advertising campaigns.
Making effortless fashions with flair that allowed people a sense of personal expression was core to the brand and attracting customers, Tompkins Buell adds. Again, the proof is in the pictures: Here, models showcase popular '80s trends, like day-glow brights, color blocking and over-the-top patterns with glam-rock and preppy leanings—all filtered through Esprit's singular lens.
No doubt, the brand's original design aesthetic and principals are still relevant.
"When I flip through a catalog from 1985, page after page contains outfits that girls and women would wear today. Plus, when I post about some of the original looks I would dress in now, I receive lots of positive comments," Koza says.
It all makes perfect sense to Tan as she recalls the company MO was to design for "an attitude not an age."
Esprit’s attitude is now multi-generational.
// Follow esprit.flashback
